Kids, Cows, and Cricket – Varanasi

In India cricket is a religion and children are its devout, slightly deranged, disciples. There is no space too small, no obstacle too big, no setting too inappropriate, no equipment too rudimentary – the game, as life, must go on.

 

It’s impossible to walk 100 metres in India without seeing a game of cricket being played, and, if you are me, it is impossible to walk 100 metres in India without making a fool out of yourself by joining in.

 

Even with stomach cramps and cold sweats, I couldn’t resist getting involved in the most surreally-situated match – the Ganges flowed and gurgled 50 metres away on the legside and twenty cows fielded lazily in the concrete expanse between wicket and murky water. Directly over the wicket, down the pitch, was one of Varanasi’s numerous and disgusting open sewers. A temple lined the offside. And there was cow shit everywhere. The cow shit was, however, being slowly and lovingly scooped up by the hands of a man with the purest of smiles.

 

group of kids in varanasicricket and cows in varanasi
children in varanasi

These kids want me to hit sixes. They don’t want to see me field amongst the cows, collecting the rolling ball from beneath swishing tails and bulbous udders. They are desperate for me to smash their fizzing spin and lightning pace beyond the sewer and into the holy waters of the Ganges. My clear lack of cricketing ability means nothing to them, they are blind to it. All that they can see is the length of my limbs and their latent potential.

I try. Urged on by their cries and back slaps, I really try. Eventually, I connect with a ball. I watch it sail for a few glorious seconds only to then see it plummet unceremoniously into the sewer. A small child, the smallest, is selected to retrieve it.

He clambers down the sides of the sewer and wades across the toxic slurry to the ball. He doesn’t seem to mind. He tackles this bog of eternal stench with grace, plucking the ball from the oozing faecal stew with aplomb. I give him hand-sanitiser to clean his feet and hands – if he is lucky, it will kill perhaps half of the germs. The game, as it must, goes on.

cricket by ganges

 

kids in varanasi

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Tom Spooner

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